Paul & John’s Round
Britain Log.
June 2008.
| I intend to post, probably weekly, a log
or progress report of John’s and my trip around the UK. The intention is
it will be relatively short and succinct pointing out things of interest
that have happened on specific days of the journey. There will also be a
few photographs as long as we have found something interesting to take
pictures of!
We are starting on the 1st June 2008 and the log should start appearing a week or so later. Paul Archard |
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FOR MORE PICTURES CLICK HERE.
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Day 35.
Monday 30th June. We left our very peaceful anchorage in Loch Aline at 10.05, went down the last part of the Sound of Mull and turned up the Lynn of Moran and arrived at Loch Creran at 14.00 hours. We had lunch in the same place that we moored a few days ago and then went further up the Loch towards the Road Bridge and then came down and, because of the expected force 8 that was coming through, we took a visitors buoy at the head of the Loch. Dinner tonight, in very stormy conditions, was goulash followed by nectarine and plum crumble and cream.
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Day 34.
Sunday 29th June.
We woke up to a very pleasant morning. The other boat, Stormdancer which is with us this week, had gone out the night before and was coming back for us to leave at 08.00 and so we had an early start and were out the showers by the time they opened at 07.00. Sally and the rest of the girls were now feeling a little bit better having had a good nights sleep, a shower, and with the beautiful scenery, they appeared to be quite looking forward to the day. Unfortunately, it was going to be fairly windy with a 5 to 7 and so we had decided that we couldn’t go round to the West side of Mull as it would be too rough.
Stormdancer, with the others on board, finally arrived at 09.15 rather than 08.00 and, having got water on board, we left Tobermory at 10.15 and proceeded back down the Sound of Mull. We had winds up to about 32 knots but the sea was reasonably OK and so we had a good and exciting sail. We went down to Loch Aline and proceeded to the head of the Loch where we moored with the intention of going ashore to look at a house and some gardens. The weather was so appalling, and because everybody was quite tired after their first day at sea, we ended up sleeping for a couple of hours and then heading back down the Loch to moor in a very sheltered area near the mouth. By that time the wind had dropped a bit and it was beautifully glassy smooth.
Dinner tonight, roast fillet of beef with Bernaise sauce, new potatoes and baby corn, followed by baked apples and cream.
Day 33. Saturday 28th June.
Ron, Dick and Mick got off at 07.30 and John and myself, having gone round to the hotel for a shower, started the provisioning and the serious cleaning required to the boat before we had our first contingent of ladies on board! Having bought up most of Tobermory and scrubbed the boat from top to bottom we then disinfected all loos and got two bottles of champagne in. Richard and Jenny, Sally and Lisa arrived on time at about 17.30 but were obviously very tired after a long day.
We had dinner on board, roast chicken followed by cheese and biscuits and the two bottles of champagne.
Six on board is a little bit cramped!
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Day 32.
Friday 27th June. We left the anchorage at Eriska on Loch Creran at 09.00 having had a very peaceful night, even though there was stormy weather. (I have now gone onto deck in order to get away from ribald laughter from the rest of the crew while I dictate this.) We proceeded down the Lynn of Lorne and sailed for a bit, even though this meant tacking. We ended up having to motor for about an hour in order to get to the lighthouse at the corner of the Sound of Mull. |
We turned into the Sound of Mull and proceeded up it with good winds for most of the time, although they did die for an hour or so. We arrived in Tobermory at 15.00 hours. Ron took us to the pub for a farewell meal as Ron, Dick and Mick were leaving the next morning.
Day 31.
Thursday 26th June.
We left Puilladobhain at 08.45 and sailed up to Oban where we took a buoy in order to get a little more shopping in the town. We left Oban at about 13.30 and proceeded up Loch Linney to Eriska which is on Loch Creran. We have gone into a beautiful little bay which is reasonably well sheltered from the strong South West winds we are having and have found an empty buoy which we have taken.
Dinner tonight will be roast pork and treacle tart, possibly with custard and probably with cream.
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Day 30.
Wednesday 25th June. We left Craobh Marina fairly late
at about 14.15 having filled up with water and with diesel.
The exit was again untidy which was completely my fault because of
the cross winds which stopped the stern from going out. However, no problems. After we filled up with diesel we left and did the 30 miles to a little
anchorage called Puilladobhain. There
was a force 7 with occasional gusts of 35 knots and so yet again the
sailing was interesting, but we went into the anchorage and anchored in
mud which gave us a very good holding.
We put the angel down and, even though the winds were still strong,
we did not move all night. Dinner that night was sausages with spicy onion gravy and baked apples with brandy and cream.
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Day 29.
Tuesday 24th June. We left Crinan fairly early in
order to get good tides through Dorus Mor.
We sailed up Loch Melford and then came back to Craobh.
The weather was fairly awful but with very strong winds and so the
sailing was interesting. We
went into berth A26 in the Marina, had lunch in the pub and then did some
shopping. Dinner that evening was roast sirloin of beef with new potatoes and vegetables and plum and nectarine crumble with cream.
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Day 28.
Monday 23rd June. We proceeded through the locks down from the summit of the canal to the Crinan Basin, that was about 7 or 8 locks. Mick Temple managed to lose his sun glasses overboard. The weather was fantastic. We moored up in the Crinan Basin in the early afternoon and went and had a drink and then booked into the restaurant which had the most wonderful view. |
Day 27.
Sunday 22nd June.
We had a leisurely start at about 10.00 and then proceeded up through the range of locks which take you up to the summit of the Crinan Canal. We were plagued by midges which at one stage were almost completely covering us. We also had some problems with one lock which was broken and had to be fixed before we could go through. We moored up by lock 9, which is the first of the locks to take us down the other side. We are in the middle of typical Scottish countryside with a little loch or lake to the right of us and pine trees and hills all around us. It really is very, very beautiful.
Dinner tonight is a bit over the top. We are going to have shellfish bisque made with the shells from the crabs, the lobsters and the Dublin Bay prawns followed by beef curry and self saucing chocolate puddings.
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Day 26. Saturday 21st June. We left Loch Tarbert at 10.45. There was a nice fresh wind but, unfortunately, it died and we ended up with about 7 or 8 knots and so we tried out the cruising chute which worked well, but there was really not enough wind and so in the end we motored most of the 10 miles to the Crinan Canal where we arrived at 13.00. We waited on the pontoon for people to finish their lunch and then proceeded into the sea lock and then did another three locks to get us up to just beyond lock 4 where we tied up for the night. It really is quite extraordinary being in a large sailing boat in the middle of the country. |
For dinner tonight we had the seafood that we had bought from the stall at Loch Tarbert, namely lobsters, crabs and Dublin Bay prawns with homemade mayonnaise, new Jersey royal potatoes and salad followed by cheese and biscuits.
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Day 25. Friday 20th June. We left Lamlash at 09.45 and sailed up the Firth of Clyde towards the top of Arran and then on up to East Loch Tarbert, a distance of some 31 nautical miles. Again we had wonderful winds and were able to do the whole passage under sail, apart from getting out of the bay and getting into Tarbert. |
We tied up at the visitors pontoon and then decided to go and explore the beautiful town, at which point it started to pour with rain and so we went to shelter in the lee of the fire station. The door opened and one of the firemen told us to come inside and then told us all about the town while it was pouring with rain and we were sheltering. Very, very friendly and lovely. We found that there was a large shellfish stall and so have bought some lobsters, crabs and Dublin Bay prawns which I boiled this evening and we will have for dinner on Saturday night.
We went out to a restaurant for dinner which was very nice, and then on the way back we passed a lovely little pub with a live band going and so we went in for a couple of pints. It was just like being on the West Coast of Ireland. Excellent!
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Day 24.
Thursday 19th June. We left Campbeltown at 10.00 and after a not particularly elegant manoeuvre to get out from the pontoon we sailed off towards Lamlash. The wind was a 5 to a 7 but luckily it was mostly behind us and so we had a wonderful sail, although the sea conditions at times were fairly rough. We were a bit apprehensive about anchoring in Lamlash as the wind was really quite strong. However, when we finally arrived at 14.30 we discovered that there were quite a number of new visitors buoys and so we were able to tie up nicely on a visitors buoy, have a short afternoon’s snooze and then dinner in the evening which was roast pork and apple and raspberry crumble. |
Please note we are now on second time round for many of the recipes I can do!
Day 23.
Wednesday 18th June.
We stayed in Campbeltown awaiting Dick Steel and Ron Griffiths’
arrival which gave us a chance to provision and get more wine on board.
The weather had improved enormously.
Having been pouring with rain yesterday it was now lovely and sunny
today.
Howard has booked into a bed and
breakfast but will be dining with us on board which will be rhubarb fool and
either roast chicken or roast pork.
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Day 22.
Tuesday 17th June. We left Glenarm early as we had to get John Southworth to the airport in Campbeltown and so we got out of the Marina by just after 07.00 in the morning. The wind picked up quite quickly and very shortly we had 22 knots at times but it was either on the beam or very nearly behind us and so we flew across the Irish Sea and were inside the Mull of Kintyre by 10.30. We then proceeded up to Campbeltown, again with a good strong wind and arrived at the visitors pontoon in Campbeltown at 12.15, way ahead of schedule. We had previously phoned the Harbour Master and he had sorted out an excellent birth rafted up alongside a converted fishing boat. We got John off to the airport and then Mick Temple arrived and we had fish pie with oranges in caramel. |
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Day 21.
Monday 16th June. We left Bangor Marina at 11.40 in order to catch the North going tides. This gave us time in the morning to do washing and some shopping and fuelling up the boat. The wind was not brilliant but we got some sailing and we arrived at Glenarm Marina at 15.45. We went out to one of three local pubs in the village and found it extremely difficult understanding the locals with their very strong Northern Ireland dialect. We came back to the boat and had lamb curry and cheese and biscuits. |
Day 20.
Sunday 15th June.
We left Strangford Lough at 09.00 in the morning which was a bit early as we still had a couple of hours of very strong tides against us as we went down the Lough. We motor sailed managing 3 or 4 knots against the tide which at times was running at 5 knots. By 10.00 we had cleared the Southern Cardinal and headed off up to Bangor Marina. We entered Belfast Lough at about 15.20 and proceeded up arriving at Bangor Marina at 16.20. It was a fantastic Marina with wonderful facilities.
Dinner that night was roast lamb and rhubarb crumble.
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Day 19.
Saturday 14th June. We went for a day sail up Strangford Lough which is some 12 to 15 miles long. It was really very beautiful and once the Lough widened out the tides disappeared and the sailing was really excellent. We hove to for a sandwich lunch and then motored into the wind for a bit to get further up the Lough. We then visited Sketrick Island which is next door to the Strangford Lough Yacht Club where we sailed in and then back out again. |
We then had a wonderful run back to Strangford with the wind behind us and bright sunlight. We arrived back at Strangford and found that our visitors buoy was still vacant and so we went back onto it at 17.30.
Dinner tonight will be sausages, probably with onion gravy and I do not know yet what the pudding, if any, will be. (Turned out to be Rhubarb Crumble).
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Day 18.
Friday 13th June. We left Carlingford Lough at 08.30 and had good wind from behind and so sailed up the Lough on Genoa alone. The wind was between 12 and 18 knots. By 09.45 we had cleared the Lough and headed off towards Strangford Lough, our next port of call. At 15.00 we were off Ardglass. At 15.40 we were off the entrance to Strangford Lough and proceeded to go up the Lough on the transit. |
At 15.45 we were approached by a large Fast RIB with Coastguard written all over it which turned out to be the Customs. They came up alongside us and asked us various questions before wishing us a good holiday and disappearing off. At 16.30 we arrived at the small town of Strangford which is at the top of The Narrows and found a convenient visitors buoy where we tied up for the night.
Dinner was roast fillet of beef with bearnaise sauce and new potatoes, French beans and roasted peppers, followed by a rice pudding which went horribly wrong.
Day 17 Continued.
Carlingford Lough.
We remained in Carlingford Lough for the day which enabled us to go for a walk, get some provisions and get some of the washing done. We then went out for an evening meal to a really superb small bistro where we had great fresh fish and then returned to the boat.
Day 17, Thursday 12th
June.
Because again the forecast was for a 6 or possibly 7 tonight we decided it would be difficult to anchor in Strangford Lough, which is our next port of call, and therefore we have stayed in Carlingford an extra day. We wandered into the village which was really very beautiful and John Southworth and John Savage have gone for a walk up the mountains. We will be eating out tonight at one of the numerous good restaurants in Carlingford Village.
Day 16, Wednesday 11th June.
We left Dun Laoghaire Marina at 08.10
just as there was the beginning of a blockade by the local fishing boats in
protest at the diesel prices. We
got out as quickly as possible!
As usual the wind was pretty much on the
nose and so to begin with we motor sailed.
It then improved and came round more onto the beam and we sailed well for
about four hours by which time we were nearing the entrance to Carlingford Lough
and so we took down the sails and followed the main shipping channel which is
well marked with buoys. The wind
had now sprung up to a good 5 and there was the threat of slightly stronger
winds over night and so we decided to go into Carlingford Marina, the entrance
to which was about 2 feet wider that the boat and the wind was blowing straight
across it! Anyway, we got in without any mishap, moored up at the end
pontoon and went to the Marina office. We
then moved the boat to a different pontoon and settled down for the evening.
There was a very nice bar attached to
the Marina where we went and had a few drinks and then came back for roast
stuffed loin of pork with vegetables and bread and butter pudding with brandy
soaked raisons.
Day 15.
Tuesday 10th June.
We are staying at Dun Laoghaire and going into Dublin for the day where we will eat and therefore will just have snacks when we return in the evening.
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Day 14. Monday 9th June. Left Arklow at 10.15. The river was extremely shallow and we therefore had to back out of our berth in order to save us going further upstream into even shallower water. It was another very nice day but with little wind and we headed up the coast inside the sandbanks towards Dun Laoghaire.
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The tide was very much in our favour and the wind picked
up slightly so we sailed for about one and half hours.
We arrived at the mouth of Dublin Bay about 15.00 and proceeded into the
Bay and into Dun Laoghaire Harbour where we tied up at berth NV7 on the
visitor’s area of the marina which is absolutely huge.
Dinner tonight was roast chicken and apple pie.
We had met up the day before at Arklow with Tim Banks who was sailing
part single handed round the U.K., although going through the Caledonian Canal.
He came on board as we were preparing for dinner and we invited him to
stay and had a very pleasant evening with six of us around the table.
Having a guest of course meant we had to be fairly generous with the wine
!
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Day 13.
Sunday 8th June. We left South Haven on Skomer at 06.15 and very shortly cleared the island and headed 300° across the first part of the Irish Sea. The wind was non-existent and the sea was glassy which meant we had a very smooth passage but had to motor for many hours. By 11.45 the wind started to get up and we put the sails up and sailed until very nearly 15.00. By this time we had really good tides with us and were doing 7 – 8 knots over the ground. At 15.00 the wind dropped again so we turned on the engine and motor sailed. We saw very little in the way of shipping as we were crossing and it was not rough at all so we were very lucky. |
At 18.00 hours we arrived into Arklow and went up the river to moor on the visitor’s pontoon. It was very, very shallow and we only had half a metre under our keel. It was also one of the smelliest rivers we have ever seen and raw sewage was being pumped into it from an outlet not very far up from where we were moored ! Dinner was fish pie with vegetables and cheese and biscuits.
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Day 12.
Saturday 7th June. Richard and Jeff left the boat and Stuart, John Southworth and Howard joined. We filled up with diesel, got some provision on board and all the new crew were on board by 15.00 hours. We had gone out into the lock and moored up to wait for them so as to enable us to leave at any time. We finally left at 15.45 and headed toward Skomer which is a small nature reserve island. |
We arrived in what is known as the South Haven on Skomer and anchored at 18.50. It was absolutely beautiful, we were completely surrounded by thousands and thousands of puffins and Stuart, who is local, said he had not seen so many in the area for many, many years. We put down the anchor angel and settled in to cook the evening meal which was roast beef with vegetables and apple and raspberry crumble and home made custard. It was nice and sheltered and we had a very relaxed evening.
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Day
11. Friday
6th June. |
We had to alter course once to avoid a large tanker but apart from that it was a relatively uneventful journey. We saw a couple of dolphins but they only stayed with the boat for a very short space of time and so we got no chance for pictures.
We arrived at Milford Haven entrance at about 18.20 and proceeded up the Haven towards Milford Dock and Marina and phoned the Pier Head for entry into the Dock. This was duly allowed and we came in through the lock and tied up at 19.20. Another good long passage under our belts.
Dinner this evening Hungarian Goulash with rice and self saucing chocolate puddings washed down with wine and a very nice Sauternes with the chocolate puddings. We then went ashore to visit John’s cousin who is joining us for the next few days of the trip.
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Day 9.
Wednesday, 4th June. This was the first of the long passages that we will have to make. We left Penzance Harbour as soon as they had opened the gate at 04.00 in the morning. There was a little bit of light. We were expecting a force 5 or 6 round Land’s End but, unfortunately, because of the timing that was required to get to Padstow, we would be going round against the prevailing tides. We motor sailed the 10 to 15 miles down to Land’s End and then proceeded to round it going fairly well outside the Longships Lighthouse as this was our first time around Land’s End. The sea was very confused and because of the tides we needed to motor sail in order to keep up a reasonable speed through the water. |
The weather was clear but with some rain later during the morning. Once we had rounded Land’s End we set off up the North Cornish Coast. The wind at this stage was really quite good and we were able to turn off the engine and sail at 5 to 6 knots against the tide for about 3 hours. We contacted Padstow and confirmed that they would be opening the gate to the Harbour at approximately 16.45. It was now raining reasonably heavily and we motor sailed up to the entrance to the Camel River and spent some long time in discussion on the rather tortuous entrance into Padstow Harbour itself. Once in the Camel River the tide was running at probably 4 knots or so and made the passage into the small channel quite tricky. We had radioed the Harbour and been given useful advance regarding the passage, especially as to how close we had to keep to the starboard side when coming into the Harbour itself. We came in and were met by the Harbour Master and tied up alongside the Custom Quay which is right opposite the pub which could not be more convenient.
Dinner tonight, roast chicken followed by chocolate bread and butter pudding and clotted cream and, because of the exhilaration of having achieved something none of the four of us had achieved before we definitely drank too much wine.
Tomorrow, Day 10, will be a rest day here in Padstow enlightened by lunch at Rick Stein’s.
![]() Near Land's End. |
![]() Dawn Near Land's End. |
![]() Longships Lighthouse. |
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Day 8.
Tuesday 3rd June. 08.30 left Helford in a lovely sunny day, quite cold but weather beautiful. Wind 15 – 18 knots from the West. Came out of the Helford and had a wonderful sail down to the Lizard which we rounded at 11.00 having been making up to 8 knots over the ground. |
![]() Tied Up In Penzance. |
The sea state round the Lizard became relatively confused and rough and we found we were unable to make our heading to Penzance, so tacked again and finally decided for the last couple of hours we would need to motor sail in order to get our course, which we did, and we arrived at the visitor’s buoys outside Penzance harbour at approximately 14.45. We tied up had some late lunch and waited for the dock to open which it duly did and we went in and rafted up alongside a lovely old wooden boat and will be here until about 03.45 tomorrow morning when we will be leaving to go round Land’s End to Padstow. Dinner was sausages and onion gravy and because of the early start small amounts of wine.
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Day
7. Monday 2nd
June. We woke up to a beautiful day in the River Yealm with a very strong tide running. Told the boat rafted up to us what time we were leaving and had the benefit of some helpful advice! about the depth etc. in the bar which we had already worked out. Left at 08.30, had at least two metres under the keel all the way down and over the bar. Wind as usual was on the nose but hardly any strength, about 3 or 4 knots, so motored. Just before midday in flat calm we saw a strange number of fins close by so went over to investigate and saw a most beautiful basking shark cruising around with its huge mouth gaping open. |
The three fins we saw were its dorsal fin, its tail and the top of its nose with its gaping mouth. Got some good pictures. At 13.30, for the second time in seven days we were approached by the Range Safety boat as the Navy were yet again to commence live firing. We altered course for two nautical miles to 300 in order to clear the area then resumed our course to Helford. Twenty minutes later we lost the GPS signal to our Raymarine Navigation equipment, minor panic, reverted for half an hour to the tried and tested methods of using the charts and a hand held GPS and then after some fiddling managed to re-boot and get the signal back again. Wind has still not picked up so although we had sailed for a small amount of time we continued to motor. Arrived at the Helford river at 16.10, having done 45 nautical miles and tied up on one of the visitor’s buoys. The weather was beautiful with clear skies and in due course a wonderful sunset. Dinner was fillet of beef with new potatoes and bearnaise sauce ,caramelised oranges, cheese and yet more wine.
![]() Basking Shark. |
![]() Evening At Yealm. |
![]() Sunset At Yealm. |
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Day 6.
Sunday 1st June. Left the flat after last night’s farewell party at 7.45 a.m. and went down to the boat having had a tearful farewell from the grandchildren and the children. All the family and friends came out to see us out in the rib and we departed Dartmouth at 9.00 a.m. on the dot and made our way out of the river, past the Homestone buoy before turning to starboard for our passage to the River Yealm. |
The sun was shining and we had between 8 and 20 knots of wind during the day and had some great sailing. Played around with the spinnaker pole on the genoa which improves things enormously and enabled us to get into the Yealm ahead of four other yachts, thus securing the last available alongside berth on the visitors pontoon. John, Jeff and Richard took the dinghy ashore to get some fruit for the evening meal which is to be Sri Lankan fish curry, apple and blueberry crumble, cheese and biscuits and copious bottles of wine hopefully!
![]() Moored at Weymouth |
![]() Portland Bill |
![]() Entering Dartmouth |
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Days 4 & 5.
Friday, 30th May and Saturday, 31st May. Will be spent provisioning the boat for the first 10 days prior to our official start on Sunday morning. |
Day
3. Thursday, 29th May.
We left Weymouth early at 5.10 am. It was very misty with only a little wind. We motor sailed out to Portland Bill. Races and over falls were not very bad. We took the in shore passage very close to the Bill and headed off towards Dartmouth. The weather brightened and the wind got up and we got our first really good sail. The wind was from behind or occasionally slightly on the beam and we were sailing about 7 knots in 15 knots of wind with the sun on our backs. It started to rain about 10.30 and rained for a couple of hours before clearing up ready for our entrance into Dartmouth. The wind also backed round to Northerly and freshened to about 15 knots, again giving us a fine sail into the mouth of the Dart. We went in and moored on A21 on Darthaven Marina, a great berth for us to have the official start on Sunday.
Day 2.
Wednesday, 28th May.
Left Yarmouth early at 5.30 for a run with the tide down through the Needles Channel and out past St Alban’s Head and into Weymouth, the journey being some 35 nautical miles. There was a storm warning for the middle of the day and again very little wind and so we motor sailed and motored all the way. Also we had to get through the range at Lulworth quickly as they were about to commence firing. We arrived at Weymouth just after midday.
Day
1. Tuesday, 27th May.
We went down to Portsmouth to collect the boat, Freebooter. Everything was fine with the boat. We then went to power up the marinized computer. Instant fiasco! Major malfunction meaning that the computer with e-mails, dictation and backup Seapro Navigation was not working at all. Having got over the shock we got all our gear neatly stacked and set off from Portsmouth to Yarmouth. We left at approximately 4 o’clock and had the 17.6 nautical mile run down to Yarmouth with the tide behind, cloudy but reasonable weather, very little wind, and so motored all the way to Yarmouth arriving at about 6.30.